Secrets of the Schleißheimerstraße: It's got legs / no poor decisions, only good pours on the Schleißheimerstraße

The Schleißheimerstraße may not be the first street that comes to mind for those visiting Munich or even for locals seeking a culinary experience.

Yet this overlooked stretch, flanking the much-loved Maxvorstadt neighbourhood, is well worth keeping an eye on next time you pass through.

One hidden gem nestled here is Weinträne: an intimate space that is easy to miss, but impossible to forget once discovered. It's name literally means 'wine tears' or 'legs'. 

From its name and the calibre of its sommeliers, you might expect a heavy emphasis on wine and a light hand on the food, a classic aperitivo spot, if you will.

But this couldn’t be further from the truth at Weinträne. They have done what many coffee shops fail to do: provide simultaneously great food and drinks.

Each wine recommendation and plate is a carefully thought-out interaction.

It starts with the house bread, sourced from Bäckerei Philipps in Waldmünchen, a conscious choice to offer something exceptional rather than standard, filler table bread.

The evening began with a light, sparkling Philipp Reiss Riesling extra brut to pair with the sourdough, served alongside curry butter and parsley oil.

A thoughtfully crafted Riesling with hints of fermented apple, its acidity cut cleanly through the rich butter and primed our palates for the courses to come.

Next up was a more mature Riesling Hundertgulden. It provided a citrusy palate cleanser enriched with kumquats, setting us up for our starters. It is a rare pour, seldom served due to its unique aging timeframe.

First came the tiger prawns decorated in a light foam created from their own shells, adorned with pomegranate seeds atop a bed of patatas bravas in a tomato and thyme sugo. It is a combination that may sound unusual on paper but works wonderfully on the palate: a creation they call the ‘Maxvorstadt Bowl’.

We also tried the caramelised ribs, cushioned by a pickled cabbage and coriander salad, finished with a bright drizzle of passionfruit. The salty and tart juxtaposition on the palate was carried seamlessly throughout by the wine.

With their menu in constant flux to stay in step with the seasons and sustainability, the same philosophy applies to their wine list, as they work closely with small, independent producers. The staff are fully acquainted with every detail on the menu: simply describe what you are in the mood for, and they will find the exact answer.

For the main course, we went our separate ways to make the most of the menu and its wine pairings. We chose one of their steadfast menu items: the roast beef sandwich with remoulade and horseradish, served alongside herbed fries and a rich beer sauce.

This was paired with a wonderfully well-rounded Weingut Peter Stolleis Spätburgunder. As a self-confessed red wine lover, it was easily the most memorable pour of the evening, as it greeted the palate with an intriguing aroma of coconut.

And now we get to my favourite dish of the evening: the garam masala aubergine. This was simply a masterpiece.

Most people, if they manage to get past the spongy, undercooked trial and error of preparing aubergine, arrive at a silken mess. Still tasty, but here they achieved a whole new texture with a surprisingly steak-like character.

It was served upon a calamondin foam (Philippine lime), interlaced with sheets of paratha, crispy paneer, and bejewelled with pomegranate seeds.

All of this was topped off with their pairing of the Goswin Lambrich Weißer Burgunder. A wine of drier nature, it perfectly underlined the firm paneer and elevated the warm spices in this nod to Indian cuisine.

For a quick palate refresher, we tried the Bourgogne Blanc ‘Clos de Somméré’, which felt appropriate as we watched the rain clear the streets of life, except for the odd, brave umbrella wielder. Using grapes from vieilles vignes (old vines), it set us up perfectly for our shared dessert.

Of course, no course at Weinträne is without its liquid sidekick, and this time we tried the Martin Pasler Beerenauslese, a dessert wine with notes reminiscent of a fine sherry. It proved to be the perfect accompaniment to a light, refreshing, and subtly sweet finish.

The dessert was a showstopping end to the night. If, like me, you want to sample something completely original that you could never whip up at home, then this is the dessert (and the restaurant) for you.

An apricot sorbet atop a crispy wonton, served with basil oil, apricot purée, and a New Zealand manuka-infused burrata cream.

Each element was the perfect complement to the next, striking a flawless balance.

And if six wines weren’t enough, Weinträne kindly brought a natural wine for us to try after my expressed curiosity. A modern label: Shared Pleasure, Threesome. I have to admit I have had some expensive misfortunes with natural wines, but this was light, refreshing, and nothing like the spoiled-water, headache-inducing errors I have previously had the misfortune of trying.

Overall, if you have made it this far, I think you can take this as a sign to try Weinträne. It has a cosy, intimate, and relaxed vibe that is perfect for your next occasion meal, be it an anniversary, a birthday, or a solo escape with a book to enjoy good wine, great food, and unwind.