Korean Herbs Cultivated in Brandenburg: A Kreuzberg Chef Embraces Homegrown Ingredients

A unique culinary initiative is taking root in Berlin as Jinok Kim, a chef from Kreuzberg, has embraced the practice of cultivating her own Korean herbs and vegetables in Potsdam. Much of what is served at her restaurant, NaNum, is sourced directly from her garden, where she grows a variety of plants that are either difficult to find in local markets or unavailable altogether.

Kim's garden spans 675 square meters in Potsdam-Sacrow, where she has been nurturing a diverse range of produce for several years. Among the crops are mustard seeds, apples, radicchio, Chinese cabbage, chives, quinces, and garlic. Notably, Kim also grows a selection of Korean herbs, including perilla, commonly referred to as shiso, which she eagerly anticipates harvesting in the coming weeks.

Despite some challenges, such as the sandy soil that makes it difficult to cultivate Korean radishes, Kim remains committed to her farming efforts. She sometimes collaborates with local farmers, sharing seeds to encourage them to grow specific varieties.

Kim and her husband, Dirk Eicken, have owned the garden for two decades, initially using it as a weekend retreat. However, their focus has shifted entirely toward gardening and cooking, dedicating their Mondays to tending to the plants while the rest of the week is spent in the kitchen at NaNum.

Originally, Kim's culinary journey began with a ceramics gallery and café, where she offered light lunch options, which unexpectedly attracted a crowd from the very beginning.

Today, the dishes served at NaNum showcase Kim's handcrafted ceramics and are made from the fresh ingredients she grows. Menu items include fermented quince, kimchi, tofu, dried apple, nettle soup, seaweed from Korea, and zangazi, a type of fermented vegetable.

There is a growing trend among restaurants and hotels in Germany to cultivate their own herbs and vegetables, driven by a demand for freshness, transparency, and sustainability. This aligns with a broader consumer preference for regionality and authentic dining experiences.

Several establishments in Berlin have adopted similar practices. For instance, the restaurant Otto in Prenzlauer Berg maintains a garden in Lower Saxony and sources ingredients from organic farmers in northern Brandenburg, while the Michelberger restaurant grows its own vegetables on a farm in the Spreewald region.

In addition, Cookie, a vegetarian restaurant in Berlin-Mitte, prioritizes locally sourced ingredients, often obtaining unique produce from nearby farms. However, restaurateurs face challenges such as the unpredictability of crop yields and the need for strategic planning.

Recent years of drought have further complicated matters for those cultivating their own gardens, affecting the quantity and quality of harvests. Experts have noted that restaurants reliant on self-grown produce may need to rely on suppliers when local conditions do not yield sufficient crops.

For Kim, her garden represents not only a source of fresh ingredients but also a means of connecting with nature. She emphasizes the respect and understanding gained through gardening, which has significantly influenced her culinary approach.