Exploring the Matriarchal Traditions of Kihnu Island

Sun 23rd Feb, 2025

Kihnu Island, nestled in the Baltic Sea off the coast of Estonia, is a place where time appears to have stood still. This unique island community is characterized by vibrant striped wool skirts worn by women, which reflect their emotional states. The island boasts a rich cultural tapestry, including bustling motorcycles with sidecars that symbolize a resilient spirit for economic development, along with traditional dances and songs passed down through generations. These customs have earned recognition from UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage.

At the heart of Kihnu's traditions are the women, who play a pivotal role in sustaining their heritage while their husbands venture out as fishermen, sailors, or seal hunters. A new documentary titled "A Year on Kihnu in Estonia" sheds light on this matriarchal society and will be broadcasted on Arte on February 23. The film follows Julia Finkernagel, who spent a year documenting the lives of these women amidst the often harsh climatic conditions.

The film features Mare, a mother of four whose husband, Olavi, works on a cargo ship. Mare is not only involved in renting out guest rooms but also plays a significant role in UNESCO efforts to balance the preservation of traditional culture with the influx of tourism. While the Kihnu people are known for their hospitality, they remain cautious around outsiders, preferring to keep their close-knit community intact. Mare expresses her dedication to Kihnu culture, stating that it encompasses her entire life and mission.

As the documentary unfolds, viewers are introduced to Mare's three daughters and her son, who appear to cherish their simple yet identity-affirming heritage. However, a looming question persists: what will happen if the younger generation opts for more lucrative careers on the mainland or abroad, leaving behind their ancestral roots? Moreover, the potential impact of too many tourists on their communal bonds poses a significant concern. Yet, for now, the island community thrives, showcasing talents such as the renowned 80-year-old singer-songwriter Virve, who recently received her first gold record for her songs in the Kihnu language.

Viewers will also meet Ella, an 80-year-old who weaves fabrics on a loom dating back to the Tsarist era, producing textiles in the island's distinctive style. The significance of the skirts worn by Kihnu women is profound; typically in shades of red, they symbolize joy and contentment. In contrast, blue-striped skirts are worn during periods of melancholy. Mare proudly owns more than 30 of these skirts, which are renowned for their durability, often passed down through generations. Interestingly, one skirt remains reserved for her own funeral, never to be worn until that time.

The motorcycles, once a practical necessity for transporting guests when cars were unaffordable in the 1990s, have now become symbolic of Kihnu's charm and are a notable attraction for visitors.


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