Prada and Fascism: How Everything Started

Prada was founded in 1913 under the name Fratelli Prada "Prada Brothers", a name that reflected its founders, the brothers Marino and Mario Prada, who opened a leather goods store in Milan. Initially, the brand specialized in high-quality leather accessories, catering to an elite clientele and establishing a reputation for craftsmanship and luxury.  

The company remained within the Prada family for generations until the 1970s, when Miuccia Prada inherited the brand. As the granddaughter of Mario Prada, she became the third generation to lead the company and notably, the first woman to do so. Her background was far from conventional for someone in the fashion industry: she studied political science and later trained in theater.

During her youth, she was actively involved in leftist politics, including participation in the Italian Communist Party, and engaged in feminist movements advocating for women's rights.   This intellectual and political background would deeply influence her approach to fashion. In 1988, Miuccia Prada presented her first runway show, marking a turning point for the brand.

She collaborated closely with her husband, Patrizio Bertelli, and together they reshaped Prada into a conceptual and provocative fashion house.   Her debut runway was met with some controversy. One of the reasons was her reinterpretation of military uniforms within womenswear. At first glance, this could be misinterpreted as an aesthetic that echoes or even glorifies authoritarian ideologies, particularly given Italy's historical association with fascism. However, such a reading oversimplifies her intent. Given Miuccia's political background and critical perspective, her use of military references can be understood instead as a form of subversion, an exploration and critique rather than an endorsement.  

In that collection, elements of traditional Italian life coexisted with more rigid and structured silhouettes inspired by military garments. This juxtaposition is significant. During earlier periods of the 20th century, particularly under Mussolini's regime, the Italian state promoted a very specific vision of femininity through institutions like the Ente Nazionale della Moda (ENM). This agenda emphasized traditional gender roles, modesty, and domesticity centering the image of the housewife as the ideal woman.  

Military garments from the fascist era, such as Mussolini era jackets, were designed to emphasize masculinity: broad shoulders, structured forms, and prominent chest pockets that exaggerated the male physique. By contrast, Miuccia Prada's reinterpretation of these elements in womenswear disrupts their original meaning. Rather than reinforcing power through masculinity, she relocates these symbols into a different context, challenging their authority and exposing their constructed nature.  

Miuccia Prada would later become known as one of the pioneers of what is often called "ugly chic." This concept refers to the embrace of aesthetics that deviate from conventional beauty, awkward silhouettes, unusual color combinations, or intellectually challenging designs. Instead of pursuing traditional elegance or prettiness, Prada questions what fashion should be and who defines beauty.  

Through this approach, Prada evolved into a brand that consistently explores discomfort, contradiction, and provocation. Its designs challenge narrow and idealized standards of beauty, offering instead a more complex and critical vision of fashion one that invites reflection rather than passive admiration.